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Author:	stymie [ 13 Jun 2013, 11:22 ]
Post subject:	HOW TO...
I have now placed these tips alphabetically as per headings to make the finding of a subject easier. Air-layering This is a method of establishing roots on a 'cutting' before severing it from the parent plant. Cut right round the site where roots are required to a depth equal to the thickness of the bark. Repeat this at a point 1½ times the diameter of the branch or trunk to be rooted below (nearer to the parent roots). Remove all of the bark between the two cut rings, down to the sapwood. All of the bark must be removed as any bridges of bark left seem to curtail the formation of roots in favour of the bark growing back over the site. If you have a rooting hormone compound, this can then be applied to the higher edge of the wound. A container for the rooting material must be on hand. This may be a sheet of clear plastic which is wrapped around the site loosely and secured with wire or twine wrapped round the lower end. This is filled with damp sphagnum moss or cuttings compost from above and the higher end again secured as before. An alternative container can be made from a plastic pot which has a hole of the same diameter as the subject in the base. This is split down one side so that it may be opened to go round the subject and wired there to prevent it opening up again. If the latter is sited just above a side shoot which can help to support it, so much the better. This has the advantage of providing a ready potted layer when it is removed from the stock parent. Both methods can then be further wrapped in a light excluding membrane. Black plastic is the favoured material. The latter layer can be removed at intervals to check if roots are formed without disturbing the actual root ball. Light penetration of the clear plastic turns roots back from the sides. Excluding light ensures that new roots will be there to be seen when the dark stuff is removed. If the rooting medium dries out somewhat it may be re-moistened without unwrapping by using a hypodermic syringe or one which is supplied for re-filling ink cartridges. When sufficient roots have been formed to maintain the layer it is cut away as near to the new roots as is convenient. The plastic wrapped one will then be ready to pot up without combing out the roots or removing the material they are in. The pot enclosed one can be left undisturbed in the pot for a growing season. Both types will benefit from some shade from strong sun and wind for four to six weeks thereafter. The ideal time for air-layering is late spring to early summer. Separation from the parent timing is determined by the vigour of the new roots. Some species are much slower to respond than others. Instead of removing a ring of bark, it is possible to restrict sap flow with a tight wire around the subject. This must cut into the bark before being covered with the rooting medium. My own preference is aluminium wire which does not rust. As I have mentioned elsewhere, in connection with holding screening over drain holes, copper wire seems to restrict root formation. Additional.....Some people are now using a combination of the wire constriction to encourage a bulge to form and removing the bark below sometime later. They report a result of a good root-spread sideways which is of course desirable. Since writing the above, i have discovered that using aluminium foil instead of the black plastic outside wrapping has another advantage in addition to keeping the light out. It maintains a more constant temperature within the layering medium. Reflecting hot sun away and holding residual heat inside for longer. Such is progress.

Author:	stymie [ 13 Jun 2013, 11:24 ]
Post subject:	Re: How to
Some ways to air-layer. 1. Take a piece of wire and twist it tightly around the limb so that it acts like a tourniquet at the place where the desired new trunk is to begin. Then wrap the area with wet sphagnum moss and cover first with clear plastic wrap and then with dark plastic wrap. This will permit you to remove the dark plastic wrap to inspect the air layering for the developing roots while protecting the roots from too much exposure to light and disturbance. Check in a few months to see if the new roots are forming. It may be necessary to water the sphagnum moss a few times, more so when new roots have formed. A Hypodermic syringe or one of those designed for replacing ink into printer cartridges is the ideal tool for this. 2. Remove a section of bark off completely around the tree trunk/branch. From top to bottom, about one and a half times the diameter of the branch/trunk. Dust the top edge where the ringed bark has been removed with rooting hormone if you prefer. (I don't bother with that.) You will need to soak a quantity of sphagnum moss in tepid water. Take the sphagnum, wring out the excess water and wrap it around the branch/trunk where the ring of bark was removed. Then cover the sphagnum and branch/trunk first with a clear plastic wrap and then with dark plastic wrap and secure it with twist ties on the top and bottom. New thinking is to use clingfilm for the first securing of the sphagnum. This allows one to wrap tightly and maintain close contact with the layering site. Make certain that the sphagnum stays moist by watering it gently from the top without letting standing water remain in the layering material. Don't be too impatient. It takes time for the roots to develop sufficiently so that the layering can be severed from the main tree and grow on its own. If done in the early spring, roots, especially on deciduous trees may appear by fall. If not then the layering can be kept in place during the winter months for inspection in the spring of the following year. It should be noted that pine trees are not trees that will air layer due to the resins that seal off the edge of the cambium layer where the new roots arise on other trees. If the point to be layered is on an upright branch or trunk, a plastic pot can be split and holed to fit around the site instead of the plastic wrapping. When wired into place this can be filled with sphagnum or cuttings compost and it must be watered along with the parent tree. This allows the new layered tree to be ready planted in a pot when it is severed. Use a very sharp blade to cut the bark and remove all between the two rings to expose the heartwood or the bark will heal up and you’ll get no roots. The result should be two trees for the price of one.

Author:	stymie [ 13 Jun 2013, 11:31 ]
Post subject:	Re: How to
Algae on the bark It can be both unsightly and difficult to remove. I have spent a lot of time scrubbing it off with an old toothbrush, then I discovered that it can be disguised by lightly spraying with light oil. This immediately darkens it to blend in with the bark colour and it is slowly killed off over a few weeks. Now, after further experimentation, I may have the full answer. A swift demise of the algae can be achieved by spraying the bark with malt vinegar. If the vinegar happens to have been used to pickle onions, so much the better because it becomes an insect repellent too. I haven't sprayed any onto leaves yet so I don't know if it would damage them in any way. I have since discovered that a comparatively weak dilution of the vinegar works just as well. The green stuff is killed off and can then be removed easily with a toothbrush.

Author:	stymie [ 13 Jun 2013, 12:00 ]
Post subject:	Re: How to
Approach graft The reasons for trying this out are varied but generally it will be used to put a branch or bud where one does not already exist or to replace one which has perished. Approach grafting is relatively simple, but to start off you will need some of the tools listed below A tree that needs the graft and a donor if it’s coming from another of the same species A sharp knife preferably sterilised (hot flame will do) A hammer and tiny nails or bits of 1-2mm wire A Dremmel or drill with a 1mm bit Cut paste Something to wrap around the join (i use raffia) Some wire. First things first establish where the graft is going and where its coming from If a donor tree then it should be of the same species. If from the tree you are working on then identify the branch you are going to use, figure out if its going to reach without breaking and if not allow the appropriate amount of time to encourage its growth. Once you have the branch give both the donor and the recipient a wee clean around the area you are going to use (this will get rid of any moss etc) Place the branch where you want it to go, this will enable you to see how deep and wide a hole you need to cut into the area. At this time you have to determine whether this branch is going to face up or down. Although in years to come its going to be wired it will have a weakness at the joint for a few years to come depending on the speed of bark growth around it, so its better to face the right direction now. Cut a channel in the recipient tree very slightly narrower than the branch you are working from if its a bigger branch if smaller whip make is a snug fit, make sure its deep enough to take the depth of the branch used. Remove the very outer part of the bark from the 2 sides and the inner part of the donor branch, if its of reasonable size, if its just a tiny shoot you are using you are likely to cut right through it if tried so best to leave it alone. Place the new branch in place. Secure in place by either hammering a wee nail through the middle if it’s large enough or drill 2 wee holes on the tree at the bottom or top of your cut (depends on orientation of donor branch) and press a bit of U shaped wire into the holes with the branch in-between. Secure smaller whips once in the groove by driving a wee nail of wire into the side wall of the groove and bending it over the whip. Seal with cut paste and cover with raffia optional Thread grafting. Drill a hole through the recipient, very slightly wider than the prospective donor, starting from the side where the new shoot is needed. Slow speed drilling is less likely to damage the cambium. Thread the new shoot through, taking care to protect the buds and stop at a point where a bud is close to the exit hole. Seal the holes to conserve moisture. The shoot will expand and fill the hole tightly as it grows. When growth is seen on the new shoot remove all leaves etc from the entry side. This encourages growth on the side where you want the new branch. If using a donor tree make sure both of them are secured to a base be it wood of similar. This will make sure they do not move apart in the wind or when you turn the tree around! When to separate? As the graft takes you will notice that the area around where its coming out gets noticeably thicker than where it goes in. this indicates the graft is taking and is getting extra nutrients from the tree itself. Tree species dependant this could be anywhere from a few months for the super fast growing types through to a few years for pine or similar. What I do is. Once you see the new branch thickening up (likely the following year) cut a 1-2 cm long section of the bark and cambium back on 2 sides of the donor branch before it reaches the graft. Leave it a few weeks (months for slower types) to see if it has made any difference to the overall health of the branch. If no difference then repeat the same on one other side. Once established that it has fully taken snip the donor branch off. At this point you will have generally a healthy new branch that is in the area you wanted it to be. Be careful for the first few years wiring it as it could still be a wee bit insecure.

Author:	stymie [ 13 Jun 2013, 12:15 ]
Post subject:	Re: How to
Basic care of your bonsai. Hints on the care of your Bonsai During the growing season (April to September inclusive in the northern hemisphere antipodeans please add or subtract six months inspect the compost daily and water as needed. This will be a daily need when the weather is really warm. For the rest of the year, just make sure that it doesn’t dry out completely. A fortnightly liquid feed is beneficial when there is actual growth taking place. If your tree has been styled already, it is necessary to trim new growth to keep the style and shape from getting out of hand. This can be achieved by allowing the formation of around five new leaves or buds to develop and then trim back to just above the second or third new bud. This choice allows you to select the one which points outwards or downwards for new extension which will create a better shape each time you do it. In spring, just as the first signs of buds swelling are seen, it is usual to re-pot your tree. Not, as is the usual practice with potted plants, into a larger container but back into the same one with fresh compost. This is the process which dwarfs the tree and makes it look like a mature specimen in miniature. To make room for the new compost it is usual to cut away some of the roots. Up to one third is quite safe, taking away any coarse or tap roots which may have formed. The fine fibrous roots are the ones which do the feeding anyway. The only function of the long coarse ones is to anchor the tree in the ground. A useful mixture for compost, which should always be free draining is equal parts by volume (not weight) of John Innes no.2, sieved composted bark and coarse grit. There are many personal ideas about compost mixes but you’ll not go wrong with the above. This may be modified for specific needs, for instance, by increasing the portion of grit for pine or increasing the bark and reducing the John Innes for lime intolerant species. Recent thinking has resulted in the wide use of inorganic planting mediums, particularly Akadama, molar granules or cat litter. Put cat litter into the search box above to see various comments. It must be remembered that these inorganic mediums have no nutrient content and supplemental feeding and micro minerals are necessary. There is no such thing as an ‘indoor’ tree and your’s should spend most of it’s time outside. The occasional time indoors (no more than three days) is nice if you wish to show it off to visitors. The exceptions being those trees from warm climes which may need protection from low temperatures. It is helpful to mention at this point that evergreens, needle bearing trees are better left until May for re-potting. They may be done at any time during the comparatively inactive cold months, as some of us, with a lot of trees to look after, have to spread out this time consuming activity.

Author:	stymie [ 13 Jun 2013, 12:31 ]
Post subject:	Re: How to
Collecting and aftercare of Yamadori The key to successful bonsai from yamadori is patience so in this respect it does not differ from any other tree you wish to sculpt. These trees can be found just about anywhere. Urban yamadori, trees collected in your neighbourhood from say a neighbour’s garden or old industrial areas or quarries. They tend not to be as gnarled looking as wild trees but can be just as stunted. Wild yamadori, trees collected away from your neighbourhood usually in places where the tree has found difficulty in gaining a foot hold, places to look are usually more remote and generally take a lot more effort to get to and to transport the trees back from. The trees could have been chewed on by animals, scoured by wind and been exposed to extremes of temperature especially at higher elevations (high up on the hills) Tools required The tools vary depending on size of tree but for general reference I use a sharp spade, shears, crowbar, newspaper preferably damp, black bin liners or carrier bags, collapsible saw (cuts on the draw) gaffer or similar strong tape Collecting First of all find out what permission if any is required then get it, figure out what it is you are looking for in your tree, this could be deciduous or evergreen type, size and style Mame through to Literati and large or anything in between. Once you have identified a possible candidate you have a couple of choices to make based on time of year and ability to re-visit the area at a later date. The optimum months in the year to collect trees is hemisphere dependant but should be carried out in the local late winter/early spring time. To give your tree the best chance of survival it needs to be able to sustain itself after removal from the ground. If it is in a small humous filled crevice, then the root ball is likely compacted and will be very close to the tree. You should be able to prise the tree out with your spade or crowbar, causing limited disturbance to the root ball. If on the other hand the tree is in open ground it may take more than one visit over a couple of seasons to achieve a successful outcome. For trees needing multiple visits Season 1 (still in situ) In Autumn, after the leaves have dropped from deciduous trees, Dig a trench around the tree, this needs to at a distance from the trunk which will give the tree a fair chance of recovery and you the ability to remove and carry the tree back to your car (dirt is really heavy!) When digging the trench direct your spade in at a 45deg angle. If there are any long radial tap roots you will have to stamp on the spade pretty hard to get through them, you may even have to use your collapsible saw if they are on the large side. If at all possible sever the main vertical tap root if there is one, if you cannot then you can get it the following year. Refill the trench and stake if needed to prevent rocking. At the same time I tend to give the tree a top back and sides cutting back any growth you think you are not going to use remember here its usually the trunk that’s going to be the main focal point. If its an evergreen conifer type don’t go too crazy as the tree may never recover from it. Season 2 (still in situ) Examine the tree for growth, this is usually pretty rampant on deciduous trees but can be a bit more muted on the evergreens. If no real signs of growth it may be wise to feed with some fertiliser re dig your trench and leave for another year. Otherwise re dig your trench this time making sure the major tap root is severed. This can be a 2 person job, 1 to tip the tree back and the other to saw through the root. It is worth noting here that you may be able to get an approximate age from the growth rings evident where you cut it off. Refill the trench and stake if needed to stabilise in the ground. Getting it home alive Once out of the ground your tree will unless it’s pelting down with rain start to dry out almost immediately. To combat this wrap the trees roots in damp newspaper then place inside either a black bin liner or a carrier bag. Don’t forget to re-fill the hole where you have dug. Get it from the area collected to your home as soon as possible. If transporting inside the car do not put the heater on as this will stress the tree way too much (obviously a bit of common sense applies here if it’s in the depths of winter then heat the car a bit but no saunas. If in a trailer make sure its covered by the tarpaulin to stop it getting wind blasted the whole way home. Aftercare/medium/what next Once home, after dispensing the required niceties to ones other half, put the tree in a container of water and leave to soak for at least an hour or 2 but up to 24 hours if you have the time. It would not go amiss here to add some root safe (humic acid) to the water. During the soaking period if you have not already done so dig out or make a suitable container to house your newest tree in. I always try to use wooden boxes, but this is only because I can make them to fit. Whatever you choose to house them in a common sense approach applies, it needs to be able to support the weight of the tree, have enough drainage holes so the water runs easily through it and it needs to last for more than 1 year. Some people find it works well to put them back into the ground for a couple of years but I have never done this I feel it would just slow down the getting it into a container and extend the initial training period. I tend to use neat tesco premium lightweight cat litter or Sophisticat Pink cat litter for my medium unless I have previously encountered a problem with a specific species like yew. It’s the only tree I don’t put in neat litter initially no scientific data here to back it up but I have found they prefer to be acclimatised to a new medium after collection slowly. A further word about the cat litter; many makes of which are entirely unsuitable. They may be made from recycled paper or designed to clump together which is no use to us. Non-clumping must be used. which will probably by made from baked clay granules or Diatomite and has no inherent feed value. Similar products are sold as soil additives or bonsai compost but they are often priced much higher. Once planted water copiously and make sure the tree is kept in relative shade. This is especially important if you have to collect out of season. In the winter / spring (the right time) just keep them out of the worst of the wind and frost. You may find the initial few months after collecting the tree are a slow time for growth; this is caused by the shock of transportation and the loss of a lot of stored root energy. Feed as you would any other tree but preferably organic to avoid any sort of chemical burn especially in the initial few months. Once the tree starts to regain its vitality (usually a bit later than others of the same species) keep an eye out for any sort of infestation or wound infections (where you cut the tree back) Let the tree grow wild and unchecked for at least this first season resisting the urge to prune back, nip or wire. The root formation down below ground will be directly linked to the amount of foliage the tree is producing during the growing season; this will enable you to do far more work on the tree within a shorter period of time all you need is that initial patience

Author:	stymie [ 14 Jun 2013, 15:27 ]
Post subject:	Re: How to
Common diseases ROOT ROT Signs of leaves or branches dying may indicate this. It is usually caused by too much water in the root ball as happens when the pot is allowed to stand in water or a medium is used which is not free draining. Over feeding is another cause. Remove the tree from the container, it smells fusty, feeder roots are rotting and appear slimy. This rotting material must be removed along with infected medium. Dip the remaining healthy roots in a solution of Benomyl and replant in a free-draining mix. Water sparingly and keep it out of the sun while new feeder roots are formed. Do not feed until new healthy growth is seen and then at weak dilution. SOOTY BLACK SPOT. Occurs on one side of the leaves only. Its onset is caused by insect attack (eg aphids) in the first place so remove the cause. POWDERY MILDEW Floury residue on the top of leaves, encouraged by poor ventilation or moisture left on the leaves overnight. Its a fungus so use a copper based spray or Benomyl. Badly affected leaves are best removed and burnt as it is very difficult to cure. Cut back on Nitrogen feeds, improve air circulation and don't spray so late in the day that the moisture cannot evaporate before nightfall. DOWNY MILDEW Grey mould usually underneath the leaves accompanied by bits of yellow. Treat as powdery mildew above. CHLOROSIS More of a mineral deficiency. Leaves go yellow while the veins stay green. Put a mineral supplement such as 'Frit' in the planting mix to avoid. Treat with a chelated iron supplement in the water. I covered some other mineral deficiencies in my feeding guide. When the lack of green pigmentation starts in the middle of a leaf rather than on the edges, a deficiency of Magnesium is often the reason. I counteract this by adding a small amount of Epsom salts to the irrigation water a couple of times a year.

Author:	stymie [ 14 Jun 2013, 15:32 ]
Post subject:	Re: How to
Common Pests The best way to avoid pests is to keep your trees healthy and inspect them frequently. If they appear try the following; APHIDS including greenfly, blackfly and whitefly. These can usually be washed off the tree with a jet of water but to actually kill them add a drop of soft soap or detergent to a water spray. This must make contact with them so concentrate on the undersides of leaves as well. It does no harm to the tree and may be repeated as often as necessary. Last resort is a systemic insecticide. SCALE INSECT Looking like miniature tortoise shells, they are brown and well camouflaged against the bark. May be removed physically or squashed. Touching them with a cotton bud dipped in methylated spirit causes them to drop off. Persistent infestation is impervious to contact sprays but yields to systemic products. ELM GALL Elm gall mite is a common problem and none so more than on our bonsai Elm trees where it can be more than just an aesthetic problem. Identification of this mite is fairly easy as hard pale swellings containing microscopic mites develop on the upper surface of Elm leaves. Almost every leaf may be affected, but the tree’s vigour is not usually affected, but this is in relation to full grown trees and not bonsai. The Latin name of the mite is Aculus ulmicola and it begins feeding on the leaves in the spring. The mite uses chemicals which it injected into the leaves which induce the galls to develop on the leaves. The galls are hollow and the mites spend the summer months feeding and breeding within these structures before emerging in late summer and over wintering under bud scales. The main concern is that bonsai trees have significantly reduced leaf size and leaf coverage, and an infestation of mites can affect the long term health of bonsai trees. This is particularly so if they are subjected to repeated attacks by mites reducing the functioning of the leaves for photosynthesis. Conventional controls like the use of insecticides are less than effective with mites and the main way to reduce or remove the problem is by removing the affected leaves containing the mites and disposing of them. Repeated defoliation though does add additional stresses on the bonsai tree especially if it is not in full vigour anyway. To ensure that your bonsai trees do not become infested, it is recommended that they are kept in a healthy condition and are well fed and watered. Furthermore, phytosanitary controls are a good prevention to mites and the majority of pests which includes ensuring that any dead leaves are removed from the pot and disposed of as opposed to allowing them to decompose back into the soil in the pot. Also that the trees are repotted regulary to remove any pests that may be overwintering in the old soil prior to the onset of new growth in the spring. Finally try to avoid positioning your bonsai Elm trees in close proximity to garden hedges which may contain elms that could be the source of the mites and if you have a tree with mites then try to quarantine the tree to reduce the chances of your other Elms also getting mites. WOOLEY APHID The tiny pests take refuge inside a cotton wool like shelter at the junction of twigs and leaves. This is best broken open to allow insecticide to be sprayed on them. ROOT APHIDS... Also have cotton wool like cocoons that can be seen if you lift an ailing tree from its container. The insecticide has to be poured directly into the planting medium. RED SPIDER MITE A filmy web over the leaves makes them appear lighter in colour. Tap a branch while holding a piece of white paper below it. The mites that drop will be seen as an orange powder unless you can get a microscope on them. Treat with Malathion, repeating after two weeks or a systemic insecticide. Over-dry stagnant air provides their favourite breeding conditions so ventilate and mist spray to avoid them. VINE WEEVIL The white fleshy grubs attack roots and are very persistant. Watering with Gamma HCH has been used in the past but specific treatments such as Provado wine weevil killer are now advertised and are readily available in garden centres. The adults damage leaves but are not as likely to kill plants. LEAF MINERS, CUCKOO SPIT & ORIBATID MITES All are unsightly but pose no threat to plant life. Manual removal is usually possible but insecticides can be employed. A word about Armillatox I could have mentioned it in the preceding post as well. I have been using this old remedy for ages. It is based on Phenol and vegetable soap. This should explain its insecticidal action as well as being useful for the control of vine weevil, moss in lawns, algae on bark, clubroot in brassicas, honey fungus, most of the toxic organisms found around and cleaning up the inside of the greenhouse. It has been superceded by new expensive sprays for many specific problems but as an overall must have in ones armory, it has to be unique. Did I mention that it cleans up the soil surface in pots after wintering and I have now discovered that it repels cats which had been using a specific area of my garden as a convenience. I could go on for ages but if you enter Armillatox in your search box you will find many pages of info there.

Author:	stymie [ 14 Jun 2013, 15:38 ]
Post subject:	Re: How to
CUTTINGS Growing from seed is good if you have the time but the majority of us would like something treelike to work with in something less than seven years Even grafting requires a rootstock of some maturity to carry the chosen scion. What then? We usually plump for cuttings. Hardwood cuttings are taken in autumn or even in winter while softwood cuttings, which come usually from the current year’s growth, must be taken in late spring or early summer for the best outcome. In either case, the material used must be vigorous and in the best of health with no disease or insect damage. Prunings from their styling sessions are often used by bonsai growers to make cuttings and these should be shortened to just below a shoot or bud where the growth hormones are concentrated and there is more likelihood of root formation. Any side shoots or foliage on the lower part of the cutting, usually about a third of the length, are then removed so that they will not rot underground. The cutting is first dipped in water, then in fresh rooting hormone powder if you prefer to give it every assistance. Excess powder is knocked off and the lower stem inserted into fine cuttings compost or something to which up to a similar volume of perlite has been added. A pilot hole helps to prevent any damage to the cutting's stem. This should be done as quickly as possible before any drying can take place. Some impervious material such as a piece of slate placed below the cutting will ensure that the roots spread sideways rather than down. This is desirable in a bonsai which will spend a lot of time in a shallow container. It will also create flare at soil level. The mixture is watered gently but thoroughly and humidity maintained by covering with something like a bell jar, an empty clear glass food container or even a plastic bag over a wire frame to prevent contact with the actual cutting. Alternatively, regular misting can be undertaken to keep moisture levels high. If you have cuttings from more than one species it is sensible to label them with the name and perhaps the date of taking. It must be obvious that the growing medium must remain moist but little moisture is lost from a covered medium, particularly in the early stages. Some people like to include a copper based fungicide with the initial watering to guard against damping off as you do with seedlings. Native trees, or in fact anything other than tropical or semi-tropical trees should be kept somewhere comparatively cool until a self maintaining root system is established. This is usually within three to six weeks but can be much longer with the thicker materials and hardwood cuttings which are taken in autumn/winter. After a year, the cuttings can be potted on and when established in their own pots for a month, weak feeding can commence. Anything thicker than a pencil will have a much better chance of survival if the air-layering process is used. Details of which are in a neighbouring article. There is no reason why initial styling should not take place, even in the first year, toward a pleasing shape for the ensuing bonsai.

Author:	stymie [ 14 Jun 2013, 15:47 ]
Post subject:	Re: How to
DRASTIC CHANGE OF GROWTH DIRECTION Taking a wedge of material out of a wrongly aligned branch or trunk is a very dramatic way of redirecting an otherwise stiffly lignified part of a tree. It is probably much more likely to be successful in inexperienced hands than free grafting procedures because a lifeline of undamaged bark can be left to nourish the site. I did it twice in successive years without killing the subject, which was a Cedrus atlantica glauca that had previously been trained into a question mark shape in my inexperienced earlier years. If the operation is carried out in the vicinity of a growth bud, that would probably help the flow of nutrients as well although I have no evidence to support this. Using a sterilized, very sharp saw with tiny teeth that cuts on the pull stroke, I cut into the site where the redirection was to take place, on the outside of the undesired bend, stopping just over three-quarters of the way through . Another cut was made above the first one, angled down to join up with the deepest part of the first cut. The distance between the open ends of the two cuts is dependant on the degree of direction change required and I would consider that it does not make much difference to the probable success of the operation. The open ends of the resultant gap were then closed together and held with a smear of superglue on the heartwood only. The glue must not come into contact with the cambium -the lifelines as it were. I made sure that the cambium layers on each side of the gap came into contact with each other. There must be no further movement between the two sides and I bound a splint made of two pieces of thick wire across the wound, leaving the middle bit open until it had been smeared with Lac Balsam to seal it. A second pair of hands to hold it together would have been useful but I managed. I have been told that grafting wax would have been the best choice here but I had none and did have the Lac Balsam to hand. The binding [with raffia] was then continued over the entire site in three layers and held in place with a normal spiral wire pattern. This was done at a time when active growth was taking place and was not disturbed, as far as I can remember for something like four months afterwards. With aftersight, I would leave it longer, even for the full year. It was difficult not to look how it was progressing meanwhile but I withstood the temptation because the growth above the sites never seemed to flag. This method has subsequently been used to put a bend into a straight lignified trunk which could not be held with wire; again with complete success.

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