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Cork Bark Elm
http://weetrees.co.uk/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=17431		 Page 1 of 2
Author:  Koren [ 06 Mar 2018, 19:37 ]
Post subject:  Cork Bark Elm
I think I'm at that dangerous stage of "a little knowledge is a dangerous thing". So instead of just doing what I think is right, getting into bad habits and making mistakes, I thought I should post some more and ask for help again. I got this tree in spring 2016 from Windybanks.

As bought:
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Slip potted into a nicer pot straight away, and this is it three months later. Filling in nicely.
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Last Winter:
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Now:
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I've just repotted it as buds are starting to open, I thought the planting position was too high, and the roots were starting to fill up the pot. Last year and recently I've removed or shortened some of the odd looking branches, and one of the apices before it got too thick up there (maybe leading to reverse taper too?). Have I made sensible choices? Anything else I should do? It does seem to grow really strongly, although it suffered with black spot over 2016, and a little bit in 2017. I think that straight up branch on the left should get cut short for a start? Thanks in advance
Author:  paulpash [ 06 Mar 2018, 20:28 ]
Post subject:  Re: Cork Bark Elm
You need to be more ruthless eliminating faults when you do your winter cutback. It's impossible for me to say specifics on this image so I will provide some guidelines & hopefully you can apply them to all deciduous trees in your collection.

Prune away anything that

Comes forward to the viewer in the bottom half of the tree, commonly called 'eye pokers'.
Branches that grow vertically.
Branches that are growing from the undersides of primaries. Keep the undersides clean.
Eliminate branches that originate from the same location to one.
Eliminate branches that originate at the same height on a branch or trunk.
The thinnest, most delicate branches should be in the upper third of the tree.
The heaviest, longest branches should be in the bottom third.
To achieve the previous two objectives you should cut back the apical branches far harder than the bottom ones. During the growing season you should keep the apex cut back far more than the bottom branches (4/5 nodes back to 1/2).

The bottom branch looks good - see how it changes direction & tapers? You did that by cutting back hard and regrowing. When you cut back - try and do so to an upward pointing branch or bud that is then grown out and wired down (wave principle). Also get some wire on before it buds out and get some movement in branches you can move. If they are heavy & dead straight then do what you did to the lowest branch - cut & regrow. If you can get all of your branching looking like the bottom one that would be great.

I hope this helps - there's loads more but no point in giving too much info at once - it can be pretty daunting deciding what to keep & what to prune.
Author:  Paul B [Swindon] [ 06 Mar 2018, 21:00 ]
Post subject:  Re: Cork Bark Elm
If it's anything like my cork bark elm, it's still too early to prune the tree. The small bits of branch are quite brittle if you try and get in there.

I always wait until I can see the buds popping, you then know that the branch is alive and more flexible than at the moment, so you can cut back to an active bud where needed.

Then do as Paul suggests. Of course it helps to have someone to sit with you and explain, it's always difficult from a few photos
Author:  Koren [ 06 Mar 2018, 21:36 ]
Post subject:  Re: Cork Bark Elm
PaulPash - Thanks, that's very helpful. I will be a bit more ruthless in that case! Yes, the bottom branch I did recognise needed correcting, I did wire it as well iirc. I've since been told that Chinese Elm don't like being wired, so was thinking to progress it as a clip and grow. Given that the couple of branches I tried it on worked ok, I'll maybe give wiring another go.

Paul B - It was showing signs of buds opening, but maybe I reacted too quickly or was too optimistic about how quickly it's move from "opening" to "leafed out". Yes, I appreciate that it's difficult from photos. I'm grateful for all the help you guys manage to give from that though :) Maybe it's time I looked into booking a class or two.

Edit: So I need to be more ruthless. Is it an idea to chop that main leader at the top back quite a lot? It looks long, straight and taperless. Just after the bend?
Author:  paulpash [ 06 Mar 2018, 21:52 ]
Post subject:  Re: Cork Bark Elm
Yes, I'd chop it. You can see the apex is far too high. My philosophy is why keep it if it doesn't look good but others just prefer a full silhouette and are OK with 'faults' which is fine too - we're all different. Tbh it just annoys me every time I look at a major fault in one of my trees so I'd rather get rid & spend time improving it. I guess it's down to personality & also time too.

Have you watched the YouTube video of Graham Potter pruning a Chinese elm? I think it's called pruning deciduous trees. Well worth a watch.
Author:  David B [ 06 Mar 2018, 22:13 ]
Post subject:  Re: Cork Bark Elm
Koren - when you do trim / cut/ chop, keep the cuttings. Poke them in to some gritty soil. These cuttings grow quite quickly.

If you have some rooting hormone/gel stick some in that and then in to the gritty mix.
Author:  Koren [ 08 Mar 2018, 10:32 ]
Post subject:  Re: Cork Bark Elm
Paul - Thanks. Will check out the video and re-prune in a little while in line with your advice.

David - I did keep the offcuts as cuttings from the last pruning (and the one before actually although they never made it). I don't have much luck with cuttings but keeping my fingers crossed.


Edit: Watching the video now (shh, don't tell my boss!). I have actually seen it before but a refresher will help as I'm forgetful!
Author:  Koren [ 16 May 2019, 12:01 ]
Post subject:  Re: Cork Bark Elm
I chopped this one quite severely last summer, including the apex, and it looked kinda crap for most of the year - I think I overdid it. It's started to fill in a bit more, and it's hard to see the branch structure now it's in leaf ofc, but I think the overall silhouette is looking better. It doesn't have enough primary branching to work as separate pads of foliage, and I don't generally like that look much anyway, kinda more of an "informal broom" look I guess? Any suggestions? (besides trimming back the long extensions/upwards growing branches at some point, and weeding!) |Too bushy still?

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Author:  Brendan [ 16 May 2019, 12:11 ]
Post subject:  Re: Cork Bark Elm
Start with a drawing. Roughly sketch the trunk line and branches, based on what's already there. Then draw the tree to reflect what you would ideally like. Much easier than trying to decide as you go along.

Remember it is a 3D outcome on a 2D drawing, so don't forget back branches and forward facing branches.

I would make an effort to expose that amazing trunk. Especially the great movement you have low down. Try to find a design that does not hide the movement behind foliage.
Author:  Gary Jones [ 16 May 2019, 12:45 ]
Post subject:  Re: Cork Bark Elm
It looks vigorous which is great - you have something to work with. It's hard to see but I think you have a bit of a bush going on here. A tree looks great when you can see the structure from trunk to primaries to secondaries to thick lovely vigorous foliage

My thoughts would be to examine it thoroughly and remove any branches/shoots that have emerged from the trunk that are not your primary branches and any others that are just in the way and not needed. This should bring a lot more space into the structure so you can see it. If your primaries or secondaries need thickening then just leave them to grow out and do a big tidy and style at the end of the year or in early spring next year. If you're happy with them, you can prune and style to your hearts content as long as you don't over do it.

Here's a couple of my elms which have had their first prune just trying to broadly keep the balance between visible structure and healthy vigorous foliage (elms are magnificent for this)

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